Our guide from the bus gave a brief tour of the town before letting us loose on the shops. During a lull in his presentation, I asked him, “Is it true that there is a nearby olive grower who claims his daughter is extra virgin?” He didn’t seem comfortable with the question. He stared at the ground, made a couple of false starts, and eventually said that extra virgin was the best olive oil. I nodded slowly as I assimilated this information.

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